Entry 6.

I am not going to lie to you. Winter in South Africa is cold. Not deep-fridgid Alaska or Montana cold, but definitely dipping-into-the-low-30's-at-night cold, easily-see-your-breathe-in-the-morning cold, wear-your-scarf-hat-and-gloves cold. And the difference between Montana and Paarl, is that there is no central heating here. None. So you do not simply go inside to warm yourself up. Even the radiant space heater that has been cranking in my flat ALL day is just barely keeping the chill off. As I write this at 10pm it's about 45 degrees outside and I am indoors wearing a long sleeve shirt, a sweatshirt, a scarf, a winter hat, jeans, socks and sneakers.

My fingers are almost popsicles. Must keep... typing... to keep... fingers... warm...

Other than fighting the nippy warehouse air all morning, it was a fairly successful mural day. With my trusty sidekick cranking out the green paint and myself working on endless skintone details, we powered through 8 hours of painting. It may not look much different from our last session, but cold air prolongs the drying time and the ability to re-coat colors quickly. Overall, I am satisfied with the progress.

Entry 5.

(click the photo to enlarge it!)

The neighborhood dogs finally roused me from my slumber at 11am this morning. Hey, it's Sunday - the day of rest - and I am on vacation! A bowl of yogurt and muesli got my engines running and then it was off to Cape Town to be a tourist. Driving through the city, I get a warm familiar feeling. The downtown buildings, waterfront shopping, winding scenic roads and sailboats in the bay are strikingly similar to San Diego. The steep grades and beautiful rows of urban homes that line the streets up to Table Mountain remind me very much of San Francisco. And then there's the mountains. They are what make this view unique. Seeing Table Mountain (the flattop one in the panorama above) and Cape Town stadium (where they held 17 World Cup games) in person is wonderful, as this landscape is an element in the mural. This area isn't technically the southernmost tip of Africa, but pretty darn close.

South African money is called Rand. 1 US dollar equals about 7.5 rand. I love that they've adorned their bills with native animals rather than famous faces. Great colors too! I think we should petition our government for bills with new hues. Wouldn't Lincoln look great in fuschia?!

The vendors at the market were incredibly friendly and pleasant to talk with. This is my new friend Jeff. He immigrated to South Africa from Kenya and was proud to share that he belongs to the same tribe as President Obama's father. In fact, he saw Obama in Kenya about 6 years ago. He was seriously rockin' the Members Only jacket.

Try before you buy.... VUVUZELA!!!

My last purchase... ready for chips and dip - zebra style.

Entry 4.

Today was über-productive! Ursula, my main helper, is a 20-yr-old gal who lives here in Paarl. Her first language is Afrikaans, but she does quite well with English. She is very interested in painting and one day dreams of attending college for an art degree. From 11am - 6pm we worked on the mural - 3 coats of white paint, a full sketch, and the beginning of color. It is difficult to see the faint blue sketch from this photo, but perhaps it will be more interesting to watch it unfold this way. Waiting for coats of paint to dry we jammed to American hip hop on the radio and she even began teaching me a "sequence" (organized dance moves). Somewhere between my San Mateo cheerleading days and present day I have lost my knack for gracefully executing a dance routine.

A quick South African culture lesson - there are three ethnic groups of people here : White Afrikaners (decedents of the Dutch settlers), Coloureds (mixed race, medium-toned skin with a lot of Malaysian heritage), and Blacks (dark black skin with indigenous African roots). While coloured is a term considered offensive in the U.S. it is simply a word used by the people here to identify themselves. For the most part each group lives in neighborhoods exclusively of their own ethnicity. White Afrikaners and Coloureds speak primarily Afrikaans. Blacks in the Cape Town area speak Xhosa (pronounced 'Kosa'). English is a second language for most.

The reason I explained that is because I am learning sometimes humorous differences between the Afrikaans language and English.

English (Afrikaans)

- I will give you a call ( I will give you a tinkle )

- an elevator ( a lift )

- a stoplight ( a robot )

- an extension cord ( a lead )

- You rained on my parade ( You pee pee on my battery )

Entry 3.

Tonight I don't feel much for long-winded writing. Instead I will show you my day in short phrased photos...

Gary and Marnelle Helling - my gracious hosts for the duration, standing on their front stoop.
This is the MCM food center. Out of this building they provide 3,000+ meals per day to impoverished school children and various soup kitchen locations throughout Paarl. It is also the only place with large space for indoor painting, so it's where we are building the mural.
Our mural operation inside the warehouse-type area of the food center. The mural is 6' x 32' - it is a total of 4 boards long, so this is just half the length.
My local paint squad from left: Ursula, Leedien, me of course, and Carmen. All excellent workers!
In only three days, I have done and seen so many new things. Some are encouraging and some much more heartbreaking. This afternoon I, for the first time, held the hand of a child with HIV. It's an acronym we as Americans think we are familiar with, yet I realized I had never actually met someone living with the disease. Bowy House is an orphanage/temporary home for HIV positive children or kids who have lost their parents to AIDs. It's a fairly small place, housing just 15 children at a time, but such an important and needed service in a community where 20% of the population is HIV positive.

This little guy was, hands down, the happiest baby I've ever met!
She fell asleep on me while we waited to feed them dinner.
South African's don't have a BBQ - they have a Braai (rhymes with FRY). Instead of using coal, they burn wood in the center bin until is becomes hot embers, which are then spread out under the grates for cooking. The sign above Gary's Braai is in the Afrikaans language and translates: "THIS IS MY BRAAI AND HERE I AM BOSS"
Can't argue that this is a grillin' mans dream come true!
We, of course, finished off our dinner with chocolate Buckeyes - fresh from OHIO!

Entry 2.

Another Unisom pill helps with the jetlag and I sleep a few hours at the hotel before my 5am wake-up call. A quick breakfast, shuttle to the Joburg airport, and hop on the 8am bound for Cape Town. Perhaps it was my charming good looks or a simple courtesy due to yesterday’s delays, but for some unexplained reason they upgrade me to business class. I’d like to imagine it was the former.

I have to admit I pre-judged my seat buddy. A rotund man in his mid-50s with thin wire glasses, a bushy beard, and wearing a rather dowdy looking sweater vest under his suit jacket. His eyes were the most unusual thing I’ve ever seen; deep chocolate brown center ringed first by an icy blue, then a deep blueish/purple. Upon being served an in-flight breakfast he asked to have my butter for his bread roll. I clearly wasn’t using it, but thought him odd nonetheless. I took him for a boring British professor. Half-right. Professor at one point, yes. British, no. He is the now head of the South African National Archives and definitely the least boring person I’ve encountered so far. He has held private meetings with Nelson Mandela twice, traveled all around the world acquiring S.A. artifacts, and is currently on his way to Cape Town to make a presentation to Parliament regarding a new Protection of Information Bill. We spend the remainder of the 2 hour flight talking all about South African history, culture, and people. Truly an educational God-send to a clueless chick from California.

Marnelle Helling (leader of the charitable ministry, long time family friend, and my hostess with the mostess) meets me past baggage claim. Walking outside we are greeted by a gorgeous, warm, sunny afternoon. It is the dead of winter here, after all, but apparently they are having unusually splendid weather. As we drive 45 minutes northeast to Paarl, I am surprised by how much the greenery looks similar to California. Eucalyptus trees and low shrub brush. If it weren’t for the wild horses running along the shoulder, the vendors selling fish along the highway, or the fact that we’re driving on the left side of the median, I could just as easily be cruising Hwy 8 East towards Santee. It’s a strange mix of 1st and 3rd world elements.

My private “flat” above the garage is very lovely. A full kitchen, bath, beds, couch and patio. Quickly I unpack and spend the rest of the mid-day hours purchasing additional mural supplies. Francisco gives me an official tour of all the Monte Christo Ministry locales and programs. The scope of this ministry is entirely larger than I imagined.

A bite to eat at La Romantica - the Helling’s favorite local eatery - gives Marnelle and I time to catch up on life. It’s been 10 years since we’ve talked in person, so there is much to say. The air is brisk and a light drizzle begins as I turn in for the night. Tomorrow we start the art.

Flying out of Joburg

Mountains surrounding Paarl

Farms outside Cape Town

Doesn't this look like San Diego?!

My private "flat"

Cutest little patio

Beautiful greenery

All the keys here are skeleton... feels like something from a fairy tale.

The adventure begins...

The last time I walked onto an aircraft via tarmack steps was in San Juan, Puerto Rico upon returning from the islands. This time, I’m departing Columbus, OH bound for Washington D.C. I must be the only passenger making a connection, seeing as though my bag is the sole piece of checked luggage. It’s rather comical to see my little red suitcase sitting all alone on the underbody conveyor. All the other unlucky souls are probably traveling for business or a short trip with their carry-on packages. But my bag and I are headed for an adventure. Makes me wonder if luggage chats to one another about their final destinations; their baggage tags cause for braggery. The gentleman across the aisle looks stuffy in his suit. I would never want to travel in anything but my jeans and sneakers.

At the Dulles airport I become hyper-aware of all the families traveling with screaming kids. Maybe because the last 21 months have programmed my ear to tune into such pleas or because I’m not too busy with my own wiggly toddler to notice. Either way, I relish in the fact that today that’s not me.

Nope. Today I am just Hayley again. Not responsible for anyone but myself. Free to spend my time dreaming, observing, doodling, and resting. I can’t honestly say that I miss Avery yet. Since her birth we have never spent even 24 hours apart from one another. I consider that a blessing. Yet somehow I think these next two weeks will vastly refresh my spirit, refocus my faith, and restore my passions.

Flight to Johannesburg, South Africa:

Delayed in Dulles. Board the plane an hour prior to departure. Two seater window all to myself. “Please take up your seats.” Nothing like an old man smacking his menthol phlegm in your ear. Amazing wingtip flex and engine wobble amidst the clouds. Looks as though the outer engine might just snap off. Taking a page from the husband’s travel log: rum, coke & Unisom. Fleeing the sun as it melts into the Atlantic. Full meal, full belly, fast asleep. Pit stop in Dakar for fuel and a sunrise. Also acquire a seat buddy - fortunately he’s quiet and smells nice. Another meal, another snooze, another sunset behind us. Arrive in the pitch black over a sea of amber stars. Closer to the ground I almost laugh out loud when the only thing I recognize is the glow of some golden arches. At least I know any craving for a BigMac won’t go unresolved. Flying for 17 hours over sea and land reminds me just how vast this world is. And how infinitely small I am.

After delays in both ports we finally arrive in Johannesburg nearly 2.5 hours late. I wait an additional hour for my checked luggage to appear. By now I’ve missed the last flight to Cape Town and am informed I will be spending the night in Joburg (as the locals call it). At this point I have no local currency, no cellphone, and I am alone. Fortunately everyone speaks english and the hotel room was provided compliments of my airline. A swanky place, I might add. Although the room is oddly missing a clock of any kind. I have to turn the t.v. to the weather channel just to know the time. Almost 11p. Better try and get some rest.

Airplane self-portrait

Good-bye USA

Hey-lo my leettle friends!

Drive up steps in Dakar

My swank hotel room in Joburg - complete with nude wall drawing!

Hotel Metcourt lobby

Made it to S. Africa - long day and tired.

Summer in Ohio

I'm on a boat!

Uncle Casey and Avery were equally captivated by The Little Mermaid (on VHS no less, ha!)

Amazing how long a little flag will entertain a child.

Enjoying the Red, White, and Boom street scene.

Happy 4th!

Best way to beat the heat...

Nothing like a popsicle dessert!

Four generations!

Artsy Fartsy

Avery's first ART class!

I should totally set up her own paint station in our garage...
Look at those straight lines!
They even have snacks and storytime at art class.
So proud of her first masterpiece!

Del Mar Fair!

There is nothing quite like a quality county fair. The insane rides, the show animals, the deep fried stick foods, and of course - hands down - THE BEST people watching on the planet. I left newly grateful for life's simple things... like having all my teeth.

Feeding the sheep - Avery thought it was hilarious.

This chicken was channeling Lady Gaga.

Good friends Leah and Charlie!

Officially introduced my child to deep-fried-fair-food... YES!

What a great afternoon...

Dinner Convo

With a husband deployed and no one but a toddler to talk to over dinner, conversation is a bit limited. These days it mostly consists of Avery using her first sentence over and over - "Where is he?" She asks where Daddy is at least 3 times a day!